at the Verdi Gala during Festival Verdi 2024.
IFFV FESTIVAL VERDI TRIP – DAY ONE
There’s nothing quite like the feeling of stepping into Parma, the heart of Verdi’s world. This year’s journey with the International Friends of Festival Verdi kicked off last night with an incredible gala at the Teatro Regio honoring Verdi’s 211th birthday – a perfect blend of culture, history, and gastronomy—setting the stage for what promises to be an extraordinary few days. Everything at the gala was perfect. The last act from Ernani and the auto-da-fe scene from Don Carlo were incredible. And those soaring voices! But a special treat was the Council Chamber scene from Simon Boccanegra, which always sends chills up my spine! The great Verdi baritone Luca Salsi was just incredible as Boccanegra in that scene! Hearing these scenes in Verdi’s hometown opera house was extraordinarily moving.
Our first full day together as a group had everyone talking about the gala, but today was all about exploration, connection, and taking in the rich tapestry of experiences Parma, and the region, offers.
Our first stop was the enchanting Labirinto della Masone, a place that feels like stepping into another world. Designed by the brilliant Franco Maria Ricci, it’s the largest bamboo labyrinth in the world, with over 300,000 bamboo trees forming an intricate, winding path. As we wandered through the maze, there was a sense of wonder and reflection. Ricci’s creation is not just a labyrinth—it’s also home to an art museum and a publishing house, where his legacy as a designer and visionary continues to thrive. Walking through these towering walls of bamboo, I found myself thinking about how art, nature, and design can blend into something that feels almost spiritual.
Ricci once said, “There will be ruins and bamboo in the shade of which a large labyrinth, a library, and many other superfluous things will come into being…” This place is not only a monument to beauty and imagination, but it’s also a sanctuary for the mind and spirit. It left us with plenty to ponder as we headed to our next stop.
construction on which began in the 13th century!
From there, we were whisked away to the medieval splendor of Rocca di Fontanellato, a fortress that stands as a testament to the turbulent history of northern Italy. Our expert local guide led us through its rich history, weaving tales of the Count of Sanvitale and his descendants, who lived in this incredible fortress until the 1930s. It’s hard not to be struck by the sheer grandeur of the place—the castle walls, the impressive courtyards, the ancient rooms—all of it transporting us back to a time of feudal lords, dynastic power struggles, and Italian nobility.
After our deep dive into Parma’s history, we made our way to Al Vèdel, a restaurant steeped in tradition that dates back to 1780. They say the Emilia-Romanga region offers the best food in all of Italy, and Al Vedel certainly lived up to its Michelin star rating! The Bergonzi family has been serving exquisite meals for over two centuries, and their hospitality didn’t disappoint. Their famous culatello was a revelation—a slice of Parma’s culinary soul that melts in your mouth, embodying the rich flavors of the region. Lunch here was the perfect way to round off the day’s adventures.
in concert at Teatro Girolamo Magnani di Fidenza.
Tonight we head to the Teatro Girolamo Magnani di Fidenza for a concert performance of Attila. I can’t wait to hear the audience’s reaction to Enzo’s famous line, “Avrai tu l’universo, resti l’Italia a me.” (“You may have the universe, but let Italy remain mine.”) The line sparks the Italian patriotic spirit, especially as this opera was written at the height of the Risorgimento.
As we head back to our hotel, the excitement of what’s still to come lingers in the air. Tomorrow promises more opera, more exploration, and more of the magic that only Parma can offer. With Teatro Regio di Parma and Verdi’s masterpieces waiting in the wings, the best is yet to come.
IFFV FESTIVAL VERDI TRIP – DAY TWO
After the incredible gala and our exploration of Parma’s treasures yesterday, day two of our journey with the International Friends of Festival Verdi continued to unfold in magical ways. Today was a day of contrasts—mixing the ancient with the avant-garde, the intimate with the grand, all framed by the inescapable presence of Verdi.
us to the stunning Duomo and baptistry.
The day began with a more modern turn as we headed to the Galleria San Ludovico for a stunning installation inspired by Verdi’s Aida, part of the Verdi OFF! Verdi Extreme competition. The installation, which won the 2024 competition, was a bold, creative reimagining of Aida—a blend of light, sound, and visuals that transported us into the world of Verdi’s Egyptian epic in ways we never expected. The space felt alive with innovation, a testament to the talent and vision of the artists who push the boundaries of opera to new and exciting places. It was a powerful reminder that Verdi’s influence isn’t confined to the past; his work continues to inspire fresh ideas and perspectives even today.
Then we embarked on a walking tour of the city, led by a local guide who brought Parma’s history to life. Those who joined the tour wandered through the streets, visiting some of the principal sites, including the majestic Duomo and Baptistry which stand as a testament to the city’s rich artistic and spiritual heritage. Staring up at its Romanesque façade and intricate frescoes, it’s hard not to be awestruck by the history that surrounds you at every turn. Even those of us who have visited Parma before found new details to appreciate—there’s always something more to discover in this city where every corner whispers stories from the past.
After a morning of exploration and inspiration, we boarded our luxury van and set off for Busseto—Verdi’s birthplace. The short drive through the countryside gave us a moment to reflect on how much we’d already experienced, but as soon as we arrived in Busseto, it was clear the day was far from over.
We lunched at L’Osteria A Busseto, a charming restaurant nestled in the heart of Verdi’s hometown. The food here was simple yet exquisite, embodying the flavors of the Emilia-Romagna region with each bite. As we gathered around the table, the conversation flowed—especially about the magic of this trip and new-found friendships that were being made. It felt like we were sharing a meal not just with friends but with kindred spirits brought together by a love of music and history.
IFFV’s private backstage tour of Teatro Verdi on the set of Un Ballo in Maschera. We even visited the orchestra pit!
But the true highlight of the day came in the afternoon, as we made our way to intimate, 300-seat Teatro Verdi in Busseto for a performance of Un Ballo in Maschera. We were treated to a backstage tour of the theater and even walked onto the set and stage. It’s incredible to think that such high-quality productions can take place in such a relatively tiny space! This new production brought Verdi’s dramatic tale of love, betrayal, and political intrigue to life in a way that left us all spellbound. Giovanni Sala’s portrayal of Riccardo was nothing short of electric, his voice soaring through the intimate space of Teatro Verdi, while Caterina Marchesini’s Amelia was haunting and powerful. There’s something about seeing Verdi’s operas performed in these smaller, historic venues that makes the experience all the more personal and profound. Every note, every emotion feels heightened, and today was no exception.
After the opera: a private dinner at La Filoma, a historic restaurant in the center of Parma. Stepping into La Filoma felt like being welcomed into someone’s home—warm, inviting, and full of character. The villa itself, located near the Duomo, is steeped in the history and traditions of Parma, making it the perfect setting for our group to toast to Verdi, Teatro Regio, and the city that has been our host.
Dinner was nothing short of spectacular. The food, a celebration of local flavors, was prepared with the kind of care and attention that you only find in a place where culinary tradition runs deep. Each course was a reminder of why Parma is considered one of the culinary capitals of Italy. And as we raised our glasses in honor of Verdi and the Festival, it felt like the perfect end to another remarkable day.
But of course, it wasn’t quite over yet. Tonight, we will be treated to an exclusive Verdi OFF! performance. I can’t think of a better way to close out the evening than by immersing ourselves in more music and creativity.
As I reflect on everything we’ve seen and done today, it’s hard to believe we still have two more days of this adventure ahead. The Festival Verdi has a way of making every moment feel like a discovery, and I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings.
IFFV FESTIVAL VERDI TRIP – DAY THREE
Our third day in Parma began with an experience that can only be described as a dream come true for any opera lover: an exclusive, behind-the-scenes tour of Teatro Regio. For those of us who have long admired the magic that happens on stage, today was a rare opportunity to see how it all comes together.
Stepping through the stage doors of Teatro Regio felt like stepping into a world of secrets. Our guide, one of the theater’s experienced technicians, walked us through the labyrinth of backstage corridors, sharing insights about the intricate workings that make each performance possible. We saw the props up close, met with the costume designer, and even met some of the dressers who ensure that every detail is perfect before the singers step into the spotlight.
One of the most thrilling moments was standing on the stage itself, gazing out into the grand auditorium. It was humbling to imagine all the incredible performances that have taken place here—Verdi himself conducted at Teatro Regio, and to stand in the same space where his music has been brought to life time and time again was nothing short of magical. We were also given a look at the rigging and technical equipment, learning how the theater’s mechanics allow for the breathtaking visual effects that heighten the drama of Verdi’s operas.
The backstage tour provided us with a profound appreciation for the extraordinary teamwork that underpins every Festival Verdi production. From one’s seats in the audience, it’s easy to overlook the artistry, skill, and passion that drive the performances. However, the Teatro Regio team offered us a rare glimpse into their world, creating an unforgettable experience that few have the privilege to witness. This exclusive opportunity deepened our understanding of the incredible effort required to bring Festival Verdi to life, as the artisans of Teatro Regio di Parma spend months meticulously crafting these creative and visually stunning productions.
After our tour, we headed to Cortex Bistrot for a leisurely lunch. Tucked away on a charming street, this modern eatery offered a delightful mix of classic and contemporary flavors, the perfect setting to relax and reflect on the morning’s adventures. The atmosphere was lively, and the food—crafted with the same attention to detail we’ve come to expect from Parma’s culinary scene—was fresh, vibrant, and satisfying. As we shared stories and laughed over our meal, there was a palpable sense of excitement in the air for the afternoon’s main event.
Lady Macbeth.
We returned to Teatro Regio for a performance of Verdi’s Macbeth, a production that reimagined the opera’s 1865 Paris version, sung in French. It was a bold choice, and it paid off in spades. Ernesto Petti as Macbeth was a revelation—his portrayal of the tortured king was both powerful and nuanced, and his voice rang through the theater with a commanding presence. Lidia Fridman, as Lady Macbeth, was equally stunning, her voice cutting through the air with chilling intensity. Together, their chemistry ignited the stage, and as the tragic story of ambition, murder, and madness unfolded, we were all completely absorbed.
We were very fortunate to have met with Francesco Izzo, Professor of Music at the University of Southampton. He directs the Accademia Verdiana, the young artists’ program at the Teatro Regio in Parma, and serves as Direttore Scientifico of Festival Verdi Parma, as well as General Editor of The Works of Giuseppe Verdi (University of Chicago Press and Casa Ricordi). He gave us incredible insights into Verdi’s Macbeth and the importance of hearing this edition of the score in its original French, compared to its frequently performed Italian translation. All of us, whether bona fide opera lovers or novices enchanted by our excursion to Parma, learned so much from this erudite and wonderfully affable scholar!
The production itself, directed by Pierre Audi, was nothing short of spectacular. The sets by Michele Taborelli were atmospheric and evocative, casting an eerie shadow over the entire opera. And the costumes by Robby Duiveman added to the feeling of historical gravitas with a modern twist, bringing a unique visual flair to the performance. The Filarmonica Arturo Toscanini, under the baton of Roberto Abbado, played with precision and emotion, creating a soundscape that perfectly complemented the drama on stage.
By the time the curtain fell, we were all buzzing with excitement. One of the truly special aspects of our trip was the intermission breaks at each of the theaters. Not only did we have private accommodations with wine and food available to us, but we frequently met with members of Teatro Regio’s administration, artistic team, and various departments. We even had the pleasure of meeting the great Maestro Abbado, who was generous with both his time and spirit. All of this gave us an exclusive look at how these incredible performances come together. The performance, along with the special treatment we received, is an experience we won’t soon forget.
As the day came to a close, the anticipation for our final day here in Parma was already building. We’ve been treated to some extraordinary experiences so far, and it’s hard to imagine what more this incredible festival could have in store for us. But if there’s one thing we’ve learned on this trip, it’s that Verdi and Parma always have more surprises waiting in the wings.
IFFV FESTIVAL VERDI TRIP – DAY FOUR
As we bid farewell to Parma, it’s hard to believe our Festival Verdi journey has come to an end. Each day has brought something truly special—whether it was the intimate moments backstage at Teatro Regio, the breathtaking productions of Macbeth and Un ballo in maschera, or the enchanting meander through the Labirinto della Masone. Parma has given us its all—its heart, soul, music, and of course, its flavors.
From the very first day, this trip felt like stepping into Verdi’s world. We’ve immersed ourselves not only in his music but also in the history, culture, and spirit of the city that shaped him. Verdi’s presence was everywhere—in the air at Teatro Regio, on the plates at Al Vedel, in the golden glow of the city’s buildings, and in the sounds of laughter shared among new friends and old.
Reflecting on all that we’ve experienced, it’s clear that Parma is a place where the magic of Verdi is still alive. The harmony of art, food, and history here is unparalleled. Watching Macbeth in its French version today felt like a culmination of all this—Verdi’s genius presented with the same level of passion that he poured into his music. It’s no wonder that Parma draws people from across the world who love opera as much as we do.
SPECIAL THANKS!
We owe a heartfelt thank you to so many people who made this trip so spectacular and contributed to its success, especially the team at Teatro Regio di Parma: Luciano Messi, Sovrintendente, Teatro Regio Board Member Diego Saglia, Segreteria relazioni internazionali Elena Fiorini, Artistic Director Alessio Vlad, Verdi Off consultant Barbara Minghetti, Francesco Izzo, Communications director Paolo Maier, and so many others backstage, front of stage, in the box office and elsewhere who helped make the experience incredible.
We would also like to extend our heartfelt gratitude to Michele Guerra and Stefano Nevicati, the mayors of Parma and Busseto, for their warm and welcoming hospitality, which made us feel like part of the extended family. Special thanks go to Chef Enrico Bergonzi of Al Vèdel, Chef Alessandro Zoppi of La Filoma, and the dedicated team at Cortex Bistrot, for the incredible gastronomic experiences at their restaurants. We also have to mention our drivers, tour guides, and everyone else who contributed to our experience. Lastly, we owe a significant thanks to Maria Gabriella Landers and Brian Dore of CIU Travel, whose meticulous curation transformed our journey into an unforgettable adventure.
ARRIVEDERCI!
But as our time in Parma comes to a close, it’s not just what we’ve seen and heard that stays with us—it’s what we’ve shared together. Standing in the shadow of Teatro Regio or taking in the timeless art at the Duomo, there was a profound sense that we weren’t just retracing Verdi’s steps. We were discovering something deeper: how his legacy continues to inspire us today, bringing us together in this city that holds him so close.
And as we walk the cobblestone streets one last time, it’s impossible not to think about next season’s journey. IFFV will return to Parma to celebrate Verdi’s love of Shakespeare with performances of Otello, Falstaff, and the original 1845 version of Macbeth. There’s something profoundly poetic about closing this chapter, only to begin looking ahead to the next. The excitement of sharing another season of Verdi’s masterpieces with this extraordinary city is already building.
Next year promises to be another spectacular chapter in our shared love for Verdi. We’ll gather once again in Parma, where music, art, and history blend together seamlessly—and where Verdi’s spirit continues to live on. Until next time, Parma—arrivederci—we will definitely see each other again!